Secrets To Dog Training, How To Train A Dog With SitStayFetch Dog Training.

Unfortunately, eliminating problem behaviors is one thing that most dog owners eventually face. This article will focus on a few of the most commonly encountered behavior problems, the very first step in your pitbull training process.

Problem # 1 : Jumping up on people.

One of the most frequently cited problems with dogs is that of jumping up on people. Unfortunately, this is one of those behaviors that is often inadvertently encouraged by well meaning owners. After all, it is cute and adorable when that little 10 pound pitbull puppy jumps up on you, your family members and your friends. Many people reward this behavior on the part of a small pitbull puppy with kisses and treats.

This is a huge mistake, however, since that cute little pitbull puppy may soon become a full grown dog who could weigh well in excess of 100 pounds. Suddenly that cute jumping behavior is no longer quite so cute.

In addition to being annoying, jumping buy Zyprexa online up on people can be dangerous as well. A large, heavy dog, jumping enthusiastically, can easily knock over a child or an older or handicapped adult. In today’s litigious society, such an incident could easily make you, as the dog’s owner, the subject of an unwanted lawsuit.

The time to teach a dog that jumping up on people is unacceptable is when he is still young and easy to handle. Retraining a dog that has been allowed to jump up on people can be difficult for the owner, and confusing for the dog.

When the pitbull puppy tries to jump on you or another member of your family, gently but firmly place the pitbull puppy’s feet back on the floor. After the pitbull puppy is standing firmly on the floor, be sure to reward and praise him.

It is important for every member of the family, as well as frequently visiting friends, to understand this rule and follow it religiously. If one member of the family reprimands the dog for jumping and another praises him, the dog will be understandably confused. As with other dog training issues, consistency is the key to teaching the dog that jumping is always inappropriate.

When praising and rewarding the dog for staying down, it is important for the trainer to get down on the dog’s level. Giving affection and praise at eye level with the pitbull puppy is a great way to reinforce the lesson.

Hopefully this pitbull training tips is useful to you.

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Dog training can be difficult especially to new owners but that’s not the case with labrador retriever training. Successful training outcome isn’t unachievable for there are various training strategies proven to help you train your beloved pet. However, you also need to be familiar with the training mistakes so that you will be able to avoid them should they arise.

Physical punishment

Training can be frustrating at times particularly if your pet has stubborn temperament. But even if you are at your wits end, never ever hit or smack him should he fail to obey what you are asking him to perform. He will not know that he’s being penalized for not knowing how to sit or come or for urinating in the family room while you’re away. Rather than improve the situation, he may associate the hitting or smacking to training thereby making him afraid of it (training).

Lengthy training sessions

Even though a labrador retriever is capable of intense focus especially if the interest is captured, we cannot deny the truth that dogs have short attention span. That’s why most experts suggest that labrador retriever training sessions should last for 10 to 15 minutes only. {Tackling|Dealing with} the same lesson again and again for two hours can be boring {that is why|that’s why} training lessons must {vary|differ} {from time to time|every so often}. Training activities should also be fun and challenging enough in order to motivate your pet.

Untimely correction

Correct your pet only if you catch him in the act of doing the mistake. Giving correction two hours or even 30 minutes after the deed is carried out will do you no good since your dog will not understand what the correction is for. The best way to correct your dog is to keep an eye on your pet and act right away when you see him about to do something undesirable. Through this, he’ll be able to {associate|connect} the correction with the right deed.

Using various training phrases
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Using {different|numerous|various} terms can be confusing to your {pet|furry friend}. For instance, if you use “come” command during training, you need to be consistent in using it. Using “come here” or “come boy” may mean different to him.

Failing to recognize good behavior

Every good behavior should be {recognized|acknowledged} and rewarded to make it clear to your dog that you are happy with what he did. Doing so won’t only make him happy but is also more likely to encourage him to repeat doing the behavior he is being rewarded for. Reward does not always need to be delicious treats or new toys. A pat in the back, time to play and lots of praises ought to be enough.

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Proper labrador training is one sure method to make this breed a perfect man’s best friend. With that friendly and extremely adaptable temperament, for sure dog owners and their families would enjoy having this intelligent four-legged creature as pet. But dogs cannot figure out commands on their own. No matter how intelligent, obedient or even tempered the breed is, proper training is highly recommended to teach them how to behave in ways acceptable by their human companions.

Training buy Depo-Medrol online is not a one-time session nor a one-week activity. It is in fact a long-term process to make sure he learn what he’s supposed to learn at the same time corrected should he made a mistake. To reach the results you want, here are some points that will help you understand labrador training better:

Develop good communication with your dog.

Inability to understand your pet can be as frustrating as inability to make your pet understand you. You are less likely to progress on training if both of you cannot understand each other. It is therefore important to establish good communication immediately. Since dog’s cannot talk just like humans do, one way to communicate with them is to understand their body language. Wagging of tail, intent stare, growling or curled lips mean something and when misinterpreted will definitely affect the training as well as your pet’s behavior. Good communication also allows you to gain your pet’s trust and respect. And when that happens, making your dog obey your commands is surely an easy task to do.

Provide short but high quality training sessions.

Lengthy labrador training doesn’t mean that a dog gets to master lots of lessons and tricks. In fact, it can do more harm than good taking into consideration a dog’s short attention span. To keep your dog’s focus, training must be fun, exciting and short. It must not last more than 20 minutes because anything longer than that can be boring even to a dog breed with gentle temperament such as the Labrador. Additionally, you also need to make sure that your pet is physically fit and mentally prepared for training. Bear in mind that a sick or nervous dog will not learn efficiently so it is better to put off the training for the meantime. Training sessions should also end on a positive note.

Be consistent with training.

Dogs as intelligent as the Labrador can notice and easily get confused when training inconsistencies occur. For instance, you used happy and excited tone of voice when you taught him the come command. Nevertheless, he may consider it a totally different command when you say the said command using an angry or annoyed tone. In other words, you must have regular labrador training pattern. Once you have determined what strategy works best for your pet, be consistent in using it. It is also essential for family members and anyone who has direct contact with your Lab to be aware and be consistent with the rules.

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There exist four important ingredients that make a rewarding golden retriever training. Sadly though, not all golden retriever owners know very well what these four ingredients are. You can even find individuals that don’t care much about training their golden retriever dogs.

Some people train their dogs with little or no information about what their dog specifically needs, the ideal options for their dog’s breed and other substantial things that make golden retriever training a success. As a result, they are confronted with many complicated obstacles rather than getting the results they hope for. Are you one of them?

Now, here are the four fundamental ingredients that make golden retriever training an effective, fun and productive undertaking:

Patience – Indeed, patience is a virtue. Even though golden retrievers aren’t naturally stubborn and unruly, they can also establish behavioral problems that would surely give you a hard time and pain in the neck when training them. Hence, be sure you have lots of patience to spare, particularly if you have a rather troublesome pet. The stronger or longer your patience is, the easier it gets to achieve effective dog training programs.

Practice – All dog breeds ought to be continuously reminded of what exactly is required of them. Constant practice or consistency in your training routines is actually the most powerful key to any kind of dog training program. Your dog becomes more accustomed to carrying out your commands if you are reasonably consistent in your training routines. The more you practice, the more your dog will learn and love every moment of your training sessions.

Persistence – Of course, how can you be consistent if you are not a persistent kind of master? How will you keep on training your golden retriever if you don’t have the drive to manage your sessions? How will you fulfill a successful training endeavor without the aid of a strong spirit? Astonishing results occur whenever a master tries his best to continue training his dog regardless of the behavioral issues and obstacles. Thus, make sure that you have more than enough patience and determination before deciding to train an outstanding dog like a golden retriever.

Praise – Verbal praises and the provision of assorted dog treats such as goodies and chew toys serve as a sort of response that your golden retriever has done what you commanded him to do so. Delivering praise right after a good behavior has been displayed or the instant your dog adheres to your commands drives your pet to perform buy Suhagra online well in the next golden retriever training sessions to come. Therefore, it is quite imperative that you praise your golden dog as often as you can. In fact, giving positive remarks and/or treats like dog biscuits will make it more possible to carry out a more fun, more effective and beneficial experience.

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If you’ve never seen a dog with serious food-guarding issues, it’s difficult to appreciate the potential severity of the problem. Food-guarding issues are not necessarily a reflection on the personality or training level of the dog: it’s an instinctive thing, and although dogs with a general aggression problem are naturally more prone to demonstrating the condition, it’s also exhibited by otherwise-sweet, well-behaved, well-adjusted family dogs.

Like an evil djinn, the problem can rear its ugly head only when food (or the food bowl) is present: a real case of Jekyll and Hyde. A dog with serious food-guarding issues can be a real danger to anyone who should approach her during a meal: it’s not a scenario in which you can expect to train your dog to “play nice”. Instinct is what’s compelling her to act in this undesirable, and even dangerous, way – you need to take steps to turn the behavior around before your relationship with your dog suffers or somebody gets hurt.

There are different degrees of food guarding. In the mildest case, a dog will merely tense up a little or freeze if somebody approaches her while she’s trying to eat. She may even continue eating, but her posture will be rigid and stiff: she’ll clearly be uncomfortable. Signs that the problem is more severe would include a marked increase in eating speed, a direct, hard stare right at you (often accompanied by a still, tense, “watching” posture), a lifted lip, a snarl, a snap, and finally a real bite.

NOTE: A dog exhibiting any of these last three symptoms has a pretty severe case of food-guarding aggression, and may be prepared to inflict actual harm. If this is the case with your dog, hiring a hands-on trainer may be the best answer for you: it’ll ensure your safety, and they’ll be able to examine your overall relationship with your dog and see if there are other areas contributing to the problem. A food-guarding dog is a pretty confused one. In her mind, she’s got your role mixed up.

She fails to recognize that you are the dispenser of food (which should accord you automatic alpha-dog status, ensuring your immunity from any kind of aggression or dominance), and instead is viewing you as a threat: a blackguard who might be going to take away her precious food. Hence, the possessiveness. The degree of aggression that a food-guarding dog is capable of might be hard to understand, until you consider the fact that food is one of the greatest pleasures of your dog’s life. Dogs are scavengers by nature: they’re programmed to eat just about anything they can get their jaws around.

As well as the instinctiveness of this gluttony, most dogs also simply enjoy the tactile and gustatory sensations that come with a good meal (or an indifferent one .. and sometimes even a bad one). They just … like to eat. And it’s this overwhelming importance that’s placed on food that gets some dogs a bit mixed up: their grasp of the situation gets a bit thrown off, and they begin to wonder, miser-like, who might happen upon them and take away their cherished food.

The obvious conclusion: you. Or anyone else who comes along at meal-time. To cure her of this frustrating and antisocial habit, you need to remind her that you’re actually the purveyor of that which she holds so dear: to make it clear to her that you’re the one in charge of the kitchen, and of all the delightful morsels contained therein. Dogs can develop food-guarding instincts at any point in their lives: some will have had the problem since puppyhood, but for others the tendency lies dormant until it’s awakened by an item of particular juiciness.

For most dogs, the deciding factor is meat, in some shape or form – whether it’s a marrowbone, a mutton hock, or cast-off scraps from the dinner table. Meat to dogs is like money to humans: it can change them, make them do things they otherwise wouldn’t do. So it’s not entirely surprising that the intrinsic value of meat-related foodstuffs can give our dogs a new, unpleasantly skewed perspective on the sanctity of the food-bowl.

Because of the possibility of food-guarding becoming an issue in your dog’s behavior at any point in her life, prevention is obviously the ideal path to take: whether you get your dog from puppyhood or adopt her as an adult from a shelter, you should make a point of approaching her during mealtime. Have you ever heard a friend with dogs ask you to “leave her alone when she’s eating”? This is a short-term solution at most: it’ll prevent anything untoward from happening, provided that all the humans play by the rules and ensure that they don’t disturb the dog – but the dog is still the one calling all the shots.

And what will happen if the unexpected occurs? What if a toddler charges full-tilt towards the dog and makes a playful grab for her bowl? In a wolf-pack, the alpha dog is never disturbed when he or she is eating. Not only does she get to eat first, and eat the lion’s share of everything; but he or she also eats undisturbed. This is why a dog that’s permitted to eat in solitary splendor can actually become more food-aggressive, not less; without anyone to take her down a notch, she begins to assume more authority than she actually has.

To prevent your dog from getting an overinflated sense of her own importance, make sure you disturb her plenty while she’s eating. Don’t make a point of tiptoeing around whenever the food bowl’s out; it’ll just accustom her to solitude and silence when she eats (which are things that only the alpha wolf or dog is entitled to). At the other end of the spectrum, don’t make these disturbances a negative experience for her either, or else you may actually create a problem where none previously existed.

All you have to do is approach her from time to time while she eats – starting from the very day you bring her into your home – and add something tasty (and small!) to her dish while she’s eating, to make the connection in her head that ‘humans approaching food bowl = good news’. A spoonful of scrambled egg, a piece of liver treat, a few chunks of cheese – anything that she’ll enjoy, and that has a greater “food value” than the kibble she’s eating, will work perfectly.

Of course, if it’s too late for preventatives and your dog already has a problem, you’ll need to adopt a very different approach. Here’s what to do: – The dog bowl is going to be put away for the next seven to ten days. Over this time, you’re going to be feeding your dog by hand – one small handful at a time. Yes, I know this is going to be time-consuming, but the alternative is even worse: a dangerous dog that can’t be trusted around food. So feed her by hand for the next week or so.

Be sure not to encourage any greedy snapping or grabbing for the food: only allow her to take the food from your hand when she does so gently. Remind her that bite inhibition is necessary to get what she wants! – Once at least a week has passed and she’s eating politely from your hand, you can reintroduce the food bowl, with one slight modification: it has to be empty. And it stays empty until you pass by and drop a small handful of kibble into it for her to eat. When that’s been polished off, wait at least a full minute before adding another, small, handful of kibble.

Keep doing this until the entire meal’s been consumed – this is a very effective way of teaching your dog to actively long for your presence near her food bowl! – When she’s graduated to the next stage, you can start setting down a half-empty food bowl for her. Don’t let her lunge at the bowl and start gobbling: holding the bowl out of reach (or placing it on a handy counter), make her sit and wait before you allow her to eat. Don’t put the bowl down until she complies. Sit or crouch beside the bowl and continue to add small handfuls of kibble, just as you did in step two, until a full meal’s been eaten. – The fourth, and final, step is to allow her access to a full food bowl.

Again, it’s very important that you do not allow her to call the shots: she must sit and wait until you release her with an “OK!” before she’s permitted to eat. To keep the message clear in your head that you are in charge of the food in this house, practice buy Zovirax online calling her away from her food a few times a week and rewarding her with a super-tasty treat for her exemplary obedience while she’s trying to eat. If at any time your dog’s behavior gets shaky on any of these four steps, backslide until you’ve reached the stage at which she is 100% reliable.

Wait at this stage for at least two or three more days before attempting to progress once more. As with any training, it’s essential that a solid foundation is built before moving on to the next level – she must be completely comfortable with each step before trying a new one.

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Dogs come in many different breeds, in many different sizes, weights, shapes and temperaments. Dog breeds are generally split into three categories; small dog breeds, such as the Shih Tzu, pug, and Chihuahua, medium dog breeds such as the English Bull Terrier and large dog breeds such as The German Shepherd dog or Rottweiler which are often buy Sinemet online used as search dog training breeds.

Deciding on what breed of dog is right for you, usually comes down to size. Many medium dog breeds make excellent family pets that are not only affectionate and loyal towards their family, but often the easiest to train. Here I have identified the top five medium dog breeds.

Search dog training breeds are usually larger breeds like the Alsatian or Saint Bernard but smaller dogs like the water spaniel are excellent at sniffing out human remains.

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Posted under Dog Obedience Training, Dog Training Tip, Golden Retriever Training, Secrets To Dog Training

Exercise is a major part of our dogs’ lives. Cesar Millan, the “Dog Whisperer”, tells us that to maintain a healthy relationship with our beloved pooches, that relationship should consist of 50% physical exercise, 25% discipline, and 25% affection. That’s a lot of exercise! In order for us to be able to enjoy exercising our dogs as much as they need, it’s important for them to behave well both on the lead.

Unfortunately, there are many dogs out there who are afraid of the leash itself – resulting in neurotic, fearful, submissive behavior whenever the lead comes out. In this newsletter, we’ll take a look at the most effective way to deal with fear of the leash. Fear of the Leash The majority of the time, the sight of the leash is enough to bring on a fit of joy – the dog knows that leash = walk, and reacts accordingly.

For some dogs, though, the leash connotes fear and submissiveness more than anything else. Perhaps the leash was used in a negative way with a previous owner – as a tool for dragging the dog around. Perhaps it was used to confine the dog for long hours at a time. In some extreme cases, dogs have even been whipped with the leash as punishment. Or perhaps your dog is just very highly strung, and is prone to developing phobias seemingly arbitrarily. Although fear of the leash can have a severely negative impact on your walks with your dog, the good news is that it’s easy to cure.

You just need some patience and some basic equipment. What you’ll need – A leash, made of webbing or leather. Approximately 5 feet (1.25 meters) is a good length, as it enables control without risk of the dog getting tangled in the leash when out walking. Chain-link leashes aren’t recommended, as they’re hard on the hands – and also can flick the dog in the face, which isn’t something you’d want to inflict on any dog, let alone one buy Eurax online that’s suffering from fear of the leash! – A good-quality collar, again made of leather or nylon webbing.

If you’re using one with a snap-lock, make sure it’s safety-approved and won’t come undone under pressure. Slip-chain collars (also known as ‘choke-chains’ or ‘check-chains’) should never be used on an unattended dog, as they’re a training tool, not a real collar. – A little bit of time, and a little bit of patience. What to Do – Your aim here is to accustom your dog to the lead a little bit at a time, keeping him well within his comfort zone at each step of the way.

Because he’s already got a fear of the leash, some discomfort in its presence is to be expected, but watch out for signs of extreme fear: hyperventilating, drooling, submissive urination, rolling eyes (often showing the whites). So step one: remember to take baby steps at all times! – If he’s really afraid of the leash, you’ll need to accustom him to it very slowly indeed. Practice leaving it out in full view, preferably in ‘fun’ places: next to his food bowl, in preferred play areas, near his bed. – Once he’s stopped reacting to the sight of it, introduce the leash to him in a more active manner.

You can do this by wrapping it around your hand as you pet and groom him. Hold the leash in your hand as you prepare his food; sit by him and stroke him, with the leash wrapped around your hand, as he eats. Keep this up until he’s stopped showing any signs of discomfort – it may take some time, but remember that you’re aiming to accustom him comfortably to the leash. Any rushing is counterproductive. – When he’s not showing any signs of nervousness with this level of progress, you can start attaching the leash to his collar. Put him in a sit-stay, using a firm, calm voice, and clip the leash on.

Don’t make a big deal out of it: your dog will take his emotional and psychological cues from your behavior. If you act as though it’s not a big deal, he’ll follow your lead. – Once the leash is on, give him some time to get used to the sensation of something hanging off his neck. He may get a little panicky at this stage, and start pawing at his neck and trying to rub the leash off along the ground.

If he’s showing signs of nervousness, distract him with a game: a short game of tug-o’-war (providing he knows to drop the toy when you’ve had enough) is a good idea; if he can run without getting tangled in the leash, play a short game of fetch; or, if the two of you are outside in a safely enclosed area, you can go for a short walk.

Don’t attempt to touch the leash at this stage, just let him walk around freely. – Take the leash off after five minutes or so, and praise him lavishly for being such a good boy. Give him a couple of small, tasty treats, and lots of petting. – Repeat these last three steps several more times before progressing to the next level: you want to give him plenty of opportunities to get used to the sensation of the leash itself before you start using it to control his walking.

The more positive associations he forms with the leash (which he will do through the games, walks, and treats while wearing it), the better for his progress. – Next, it’s time for a short obedience-training session while he’s wearing the leash. Five minutes is plenty: practice a sit-stay and the recall command (“come”) while he’s wearing the leash.

This will reinforce your authority and leadership, and remind him that he’s still expected to obey you while wearing the leash. – When he’s readily obeying your commands with the leash on, you can take him for a short walk while he’s wearing it. If he’s jumpy, do not reinforce his nervousness by rewarding him with attention. Simply ignore him and carry on walking.

Remember, he takes his cues from you, so keep calm and wait for it to pass. – If, at any point, you feel that he’s simply too nervous to proceed (for example, if he’s still panicking after three or four minutes of walking on the leash), go back to the level at which he was last 100% comfortable. Wait a few days at this stage before attempting to proceed.

Things to Remember – Remember to be patient! Don’t attempt to rush your dog’s progress: using force is counterproductive to your end goal. You’re teaching him to relax and be calm around the leash – if you get stressed or frustrated with his lack of progress, he’ll be able to tell, and his anxiety levels will increase, not decrease. – Remember not to indulge his nervousness or coddle him if he plays up or gets nervous. If you react to his crying and trembling with petting and cooing, you are telling him that it’s OK to feel like that.

If he’s nervous, either ignore it and carry on, or distract him with a game or short walk. If he’s still panic-stricken after three or four minutes, revert to the previous step and give it more time. – This should go without saying, but never correct or punish him for skittishness or nervous behavior – again, it’s counterproductive in the extreme.

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House buy Extendaquin online training is one of the areas of dog ownership that’s most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread!

Today’s newsletter is going to deal with two of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training:
- Submissive/excited urination
- Scent marking
Common house training problem #1: Submissive / excited urination
What is it?
A ‘submissive urinator’ is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you and any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress – like when you return home at the end of the day, or when he’s being told off.

Why does it happen?

Puppies are the usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it’s not uncommon to see adult dogs with the problem as well: usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand.)
When does it happen?

Situations when an excited/fearful dog is likely to urinate:
- Greeting time after a prolonged absence
- Play time
- The arrival of guests
- Stressful situations at home, eg arguments
- During a correction (you’re telling him off)
- Sudden loud noises (thunder, fireworks)
What can I do about it?
Fortunately, it’s not difficult to “cure” your dog of his submissive/excited urination.
First of all, you should take him to the vet to make sure there’s no medical reason for the issue (like diabetes or a bladder infection.)

Next, it’s time to take control of the problem:
- Limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively. Don’t restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there’s a situation coming which would normally result in urination – for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon – take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.

- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don’t encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a neutral “hello”, a quick pat, and then go about making yourself at home.

- It’s important that you DO NOT punish or harshly correct your dog for this behavior. It’s not something that he can easily control, and he’s certainly not doing it on purpose. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm “No!” followed by praise when he stops should suffice) but don’t punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn’t mean to do it, after all!

- If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone. Remember, you’re dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.

Comon house training problem #2: Scent marking
Scent marking – where a dog “marks” his or her territory with urine – is technically not actually a house training problem, since it’s based on issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training (a dog can be perfectly house trained but still mark inside the house.)

However, because – since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house – it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training: and since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.

Scent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two
Your dog’s probably scent marking, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:

- The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces (walls, doors, etc)

- He’s male, unneutered, and at least five or six months old. Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones –if you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking. (Unspayed females also mark, but it’s less common; spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it’s relatively infrequent)

- It makes little difference how often he’s taken outside for a toilet break
- He frequently targets items that are new to the house: new possessions, guest clothing/footwear, etc
- You live in a multi-dog household and there is conflict between two or more of the dogs
- There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house

What to do about the problem?

First things first: spay or neuter your dog(s) as soon as you possibly can. If you can do this early enough – ideally, at six months of age – this often halts marking altogether; but if your dog’s been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.

Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Use a non-ammonia based cleaner (because it smells just like pee) and stay away from vinegar too (it smells similar to pee.) Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective; there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.

Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you’ll need to redefine the places that you know he’s marked to prevent repeat offending.
You can do this in a number of ways:
- Feed him next to or on top of the spot
- Play with him there
- Groom him there
- Put his bed over or next to it
- Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work

If there is rivalry between dogs in the household, you’ll need to take steps to resolve it. Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a “power struggle”), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys he/she wants, “stares down” another dog), and reinforce this position.

How to do this: feed the dominant dog first. Pet him/her first. Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one. This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog – and when this hierarchy’s been recognizably established, territorial/dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.

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Jumping is a really common problem among dogs – or should I say among dog owners? It’s rarely a problem for the dogs themselves – in fact, jumping seems to act as a reward in itself. It’s a different kettle of fish for the exasperated owner, who’s forced to deal with a new set of muddy footprints/gouges in their skin and clothes/offended guests/scared children! Many owners inadvertently encourage jumping behavior from puppyhood: when a small puppy comes gamboling up to us, wiggling with excitement and making small, clumsy leaps at our knees, it’s almost natural to lean down and respond in kind.

Effectively, we reward that puppy’s “jump-y” greeting by reacting with exuberant affection, hugs and kisses. The puppy learns a fast lesson: jumping is a good thing, because it results in plenty of positive attention and physical contact. Your dog doesn’t understand the difference between a jump as a small, cute puppy, and a jump as a huge, hairy adult. To a dog, a greeting is a greeting, and just because he’s aged by a few months is no reason to stop jumping – at least, not voluntarily. You’ll need to take matters into your own hands, and make it perfectly clear to your dog that jumping is no longer an option.

When is jumping buy Daily Best Dogs online not appropriate? Obviously, whether or not you’re prepared to accept your dog’s insistence on redefining verticality all comes down to personal preference. Many owners of smaller dogs actually expect them to jump up – among toy dog owners, jumping seems to be viewed as a sign of excitement and affection on the dog’s behalf. The good news is that these dogs aren’t likely to knock anyone flying when they’re feeling rambunctious, and they’re small enough that their size usually won’t intimidate any but the youngest of children.

On the other hand, there’s rarely a scenario where strangers will actively welcome being leapt up on by an unknown dog, regardless of said dog’s size; really, it’s just plain good form to teach your dog the “off” command, so that you’re prepared for those incidences when you’re not directly on hand to stop the jumping behavior. For owners of large-breed dogs, the “off” (or “no jump”) command is mandatory. Big dogs are often taller than humans when they rear up on their hind legs (and just imagine the experience from a child’s point of view, with a dog’s slavering jaws looming above your own head!) – they’re often heavy enough to knock smaller adults tip over tail.

At the very least, a large dog’s paws are heavy enough to gouge long rents in cloth and exposed flesh. Bruising and scratches are unpleasant enough to deal with when they’re your own problem; but they’re much worse when your dog’s inflicted them on somebody else! Really, any kind of jumping that involves anyone apart from yourself is just bad form. All owners with even pretensions of responsibility should arm their dogs with a reliable recall to the “off” command – just in case. Why does jumping happen? The main reason that most dogs jump up is simply out of excitement: it’s an enthusiastic greeting, reserved for times when adrenaline’s running high and the dog’s happy about something.

Many dogs don’t jump at all, apart from when their owner returns home after a relatively prolonged absence (like the average workday). If your dog is leaping up on you in these circumstances, there’s no sinister motivation at work here: he’s literally jumping for joy. A less common, but more serious, reason that some dogs will jump is to exert their dominance over you (or over whomever they’re jumping on). Dogs are pack animals: they live in designated hierarchies of social rank and order.

When a dog needs to assert his dominance over a lesser animal, one way of doing so is to declare physical superiority, which is usually done by “jumping up”: he’ll sling one or both paws over the other dog’s shoulders. You’ll be able to tell the basic reason for your dog’s jumping simply by considering the circumstances surrounding the event. If he only jumps up in periods of great excitement (like during play-time, or when you return home from work) then he’s clearly just demonstrating an exuberant frame of mind. If the behavior occurs in a variety of situations, then it’s more likely that he’s expressing dominance over you, which is a more complex issue – the jumping’s just a symptom of an underlying attitude and communication issue.

Essentially, you’ll need to make some serious adjustments to your overall relationship with your dog, and brush up on your alpha-dog techniques (tip: Secrets to Dog Training has some fantastic resources on coping with a dominant dog – there’s a link to the site at the bottom of the page). Four paws on the ground, please! How you react to your dog’s jumping plays a big role in whether or not that behavior gets repeated. You’re going to need to make a prolonged effort to be consistent in how you choose to deal with this problem: for your dog to stop jumping, he needs to be taught that it is never ever acceptable for him to do so.

This means that you can’t allow him to jump sometimes, but forbid him from doing it at other times. Your dog can’t understand the difference between a playful and an irritable mood, or your work and play clothes: all he understands is that, if you allow him to jump up on some occasions, he’ll try to jump up on you whenever he feels like it, because he doesn’t know any better. Stopping the jumping Most trainers agree that the most effective way for you to weed out unwanted behaviors (like jumping) in your dog is also the easiest: all you have to do is simply ignore him whenever he jumps up. The idea is to give him the cold shoulder: withdraw all attention, even negative attention (so no yelling, shoving, or corrections).

Here’s how to implement this training technique: whenever your dog jumps up on you, turn your back straight away. Since dogs understand body language a lot more clearly than they do the spoken word, you’re going to be using your posture to convey the message that such behavior isn’t acceptable here: fold your arms, turn your back, turn your face away from him and avert your eyes. ‘ This is where a lot of people make a mistake: they confuse ignoring the behavior with ignoring the dog.

You’re not ignoring the behavior – i.e., you’re not carrying on with whatever you were doing as if the jumping wasn’t happening; you’re ignoring your dog. You’re still going to react; but your reaction is for you to actively ignore him. The cold shoulder is a really effective way of communicating your displeasure to a dog – he’ll catch on very quickly.

Without the encouragement of your attention and your reactions to his behavior, he’ll calm down very quickly indeed. When to praise When all four paws are on the ground, then – and only then – you can praise the heck out of him! Don’t be confused by the proximity of the positive reinforcement to the negative – dogs have a very short “training memory”, and are only capable of associating a reaction from you with whatever behavior it is they’re exhibiting at the time of that reaction.

So, it’s perfectly OK for you to react with wild enthusiasm the very second that his paws touch the ground, even if you were cold-shouldering him the split-second before.

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Some owners seem to want their dogs to stop barking, period: a good dog is a quiet dog, and the only time that barking’s permitted is when there’s a man in a black balaclava and stripy prison outfit, clutching a haversack marked ‘Swag’, clambering in through your bedroom window. Dogs don’t see barking in quite the same light. Your dog has a voice, just like you do, and she uses it just how you do too: to communicate something to the people she cares about.

I don’t think that barking is necessarily a bad thing – in fact, I think it’s encouraging that my dog wants to “talk” to me, enough so that I can overlook the stentorian qualities of his voice (which, in enclosed spaces, is positively overpowering) in favor of his desire to communicate with me. It’s the thought that counts (even though I feel better-equipped to stand by this sanctimonious belief when my ears are sheltered safely behind industrial-quality ear-plugs).

Unfortunately, the language barrier between dogs and humans is pretty well impermeable, which means it’s up to us to use the context, the body language of our dogs, and the circumstances of the vocalization to parse meaning from a volley of barks. So why do dogs bark? It’s not easy to say (it’s like trying to answer the question, “Why do humans talk?” in so many words). Let’s start off by saying that dogs bark for many different reasons. A lot of it depends on the breed: some dogs were bred to bark only when a threat is perceived (this is true of guarding breeds in particular, like Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds); some were bred to use their voices as a tool of sorts, to assist their owners in pursuit of a common goal (sporting breeds such as Beagles and Bloodhounds, trained to ‘bay’ when they scent the quarry), and some dogs just like to hear themselves talk (take just about any of the toy breeds as an example of a readily-articulate dog!).

However, all breed specificities cast aside, there are some circumstances where just about any dog will give voice: * She’s bored * She’s lonely * She’s hungry, or knows it’s time for a meal * Something is wrong/someone is near the house * She’s inviting you to play * She sees another animal * She needs the toilet If your dog is barking for any of these reasons, it’s not really realistic for you to try to stop her: after all, she’s a dog, and it’s the nature of all dogs to bark at certain times and in certain situations.

Presumably you were aware of this when you adopted your friend (and, if total silence was high on your list of priorities, you’d have bought a pet rock, right?). Of course, there are times when barking isn’t only unwarranted, it’s downright undesirable. Some dogs can use their voices as a means of manipulation. Take this situation as an example: You’re lying on the couch reading a book. Your dog awakes from a nap and decides it’s time for a game. She picks up her ball, comes over, and drops it in your lap. You ignore her and keep on reading. After a second of puzzled silence, she nudges your hand with her nose and barks once, loudly.

You look over at her – she assumes the ‘play-bow’ position (elbows near the floor, bottom in the air, tail waving) and pants enticingly at you. You return to your book. She barks again, loudly – and, when no response is elicited, barks again. And this time, she keeps it up. After a minute or so of this, sighing, you put down your book (peace and quiet is evidently not going to be a component of your evening, after all), pick up the ball, and take her outside for a game of fetch. She stops barking immediately. I’m sure you know that respect is an essential part of your relationship with your dog.

You respect her, which you demonstrate by taking good care of her regardless of the convenience of doing so, feeding her nutritious and tasty food, and showing your affection for her in ways that she understands and enjoys. In order for her to be worthy of your respect, she has to respect you, too. Something that many kind-hearted souls struggle to come to terms with is that dog ownership is not about equality: it’s about you being the boss, and her being the pet. Dogs are not children; they are most comfortable and best-behaved when they know that you are in charge.

A dog has to respect your leadership to be a happy, well-adjusted, and well-behaved pet. In the situation above, there was no respect being shown by the dog. She wasn’t inviting her owner to play; she was harassing her owner to play. In fact, I’d even say bullying. And even worse, the behavior was being reinforced by the owner’s capitulation – effectively, giving in to this behavior taught her that to get what she wants, she has to make a noise – and she has to keep it up until her goal is achieved. Affection and play-times are obviously necessary aspects of life with a dog, but they have to be doled out on your own terms.

If she learns that she can get what she wants by barking, then your house is going to become a Noise Pollution Zone (and this is not going to endear you to your neighbors, either). To prevent this bullying behavior in your dog from assuming a familiar role in her repertoire of communications, you have to prove to her that you’re not the kind of person that can be manipulated so easily. It’s simple to do this: all you have to do is ignore her. I’m not talking about passive ignorance, where you pay her no attention and simply continue with whatever it was you were doing – you need to take more of an active role.

This means conveying to her through your body language that she is not worthy of your attention when she acts in such an undesirable manner. The absolute best and most effective thing for you to do in this case is to give her the cold shoulder. When she starts trying to ‘bark you’ into doing something for her, turn your back on her straight away. Get up, avert your eyes and face, and turn around so your back is towards her. Don’t look at her, and don’t talk to her – not even a “no”. She’ll probably be confused by this, and will likely bark harder.

This is particularly true if you’ve given in to her bully-barking in the past – the more times you’ve reinforced the behavior, the more persistent she’s going to be. In fact, the barking will almost certainly get a lot worse before it gets better – after all, it’s worked for her the past, so it’s understandable that she’ll expect it to work again. As in all aspects of dog training, consistency is very important.

You must ensure that you don’t change your mind halfway through and give in to what she wants – because by doing so, you’re teaching her to be really, really persistent (“OK, so I just need to bark for ten minutes instead of five to get a walk,” is the message she’ll get). But what can you do in other situations where bullying isn’t an issue and you just want her to stop the racket? If you want to get the message across that you’d like her to cease fire and be quiet, the most effective thing you can do is to use your hands.

No, I’m not talking about hitting her: this is a perfectly humane, impact- and pain-free method of conveying that what you require right now is peace and quiet. Here’s what you do: when she’s barking, give her a second to ‘get it out of her system’ (it’s a lot kinder, and a lot more effective, to give her a chance – however brief – to express herself before asking her to be quiet). If she doesn’t calm down under her own steam, reach out and clasp her muzzle gently, but firmly, in your hand. She’ll try to shake you off, or back away, so you can place your other hand on her collar to give you greater control.

This method is useful for two reasons: firstly, it effectively silences the barking (since no dog, no matter how loud, can bark with her mouth shut!). Secondly, it reinforces your authority: you’re showing her through direct physical action that you’re a benevolent but firm leader who will brook no nonsense, and who won’t balk when it comes to enforcing your guidance. Hold onto her muzzle and collar until she’s stopped trying to break free: only when she calms down and stops wriggling does it mean that she’s accepted your authority.

When she’s still, hold on for one or two more seconds, then let her go and praise her. In addition to this short-term fix, there are also a few things you can to do to reduce your dog’s need to bark in the first place. The number-one cause for unwanted barking (as in, the kind of barking that’s repetitive and is directed at nothing) is nervous, agitated energy – the kind she gets from not getting enough exercise. Most dogs function best with one and a half hours’ exercise every day, which is a considerable time commitment for you.

Of course, this varies from dog to dog, depending on factors like breed, age, and general level of health. You may think that your dog is getting as much exercise as she needs, or at least as much as you can possibly afford to give her – but if her barking is coupled with an agitated demeanor (fidgeting, perhaps acting more aggressively than you’d expect or want, restlessness, destructive behavior) then she almost definitely needs more. Fortunately, the fix for this problem is pretty simple: you’ll just have to exercise her more.

Try getting up a half-hour earlier in the morning – it’ll make a big difference. If this is absolutely impossible, consider hiring someone to walk her in the mornings and/or evenings. And if this is impossible too, then you’ll just have to resign yourself to having a loud, frustrated, and agitated dog (although whether you can resign her to this state remains to be seen). The second most common cause of excessive vocalization in dogs is too much ‘alone time’.

Dogs are social animals: they need lots of attention, lots of interaction, and lots of communication. Without these things, they become anxious and on edge. If you’re at home with your dog, you’re not paying attention to her, and she’s spending a lot of time barking at what appears to be nothing, she’s probably bored and lonely and would benefit from a healthy dose of affection and attention.

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